It has rained almost every day, all day, for the last two months. We have had two days of cloudy-but-rainless sky out of the last 60. We used the first one to cut back the overgrown ivy, weeds, bushes and grass by hand. We used the second to do the same thing again with the new electric lawn equipment we'd purchased that morning. My house rocks when it is windy. It doesn't rock so much from wake when boaters pass by too fast. This surprises me.
In the mornings the canal is overcome with algae and it looks neon green like the Chicago River on St. Patrick's Day.
We have a familiy of swans, 7 babies and two parents, who come up to our house about once every two weeks. I can't help but feed them just a little. The babies are twice as big as your average duck and have gray beaks. The parents have orange beaks and always bookend the babies when they paddle up to our house.
Around 3:00 the neighborhood ducks take naps, floating on the water with their bills tucked under their wings.
Raafje, our little black shorthair cat, wants to be outside all day, every day. The two sets of french doors that open into the garden are considered the "danger zone." She is perfectly happy to hang out with us outside or inside unless we are in the danger zone--which is an area where she may potentially be scooped up and placed inside against her will. You cannot catch Raafje in the danger zone. She's fast, sleek, nimble and stealth. The only time we can get her to come in is usually in the middle of the night. We must purposefully abandon her out there for several hours so the fear of her NEVER BEING LET INSIDE EVER AGAIN WHERE THE FOOD IS, momentarily outweighs her residual panther-like inclinations.
Natalia, our Norwegian forest cat, jumps from the top of the bookshelf or scales the wall from a cat condo and will hide in the crawl space above the kitchen for hours. She's convinced she can't jump down so we have to assist her with a cat elevator. She loves the outdoors too and is an expert dragonfly catcher.
Regen, our shy girl, spends most of the day downstairs, but in the afternoon she comes outside and has her own secret spot where she scales the edge of the house and hangs out in the neighbor's yard.
Two of our three cats have accidentally gone swimming. Both are fine.
Someone stole our hand-made garden table that came with two hand made chairs.
We discovered the Twiske which is this rather fabulous nature preserve just 15 minutes' bike ride from our house.
We discovered Mike's gym which is a 10 minute bike ride from our house. It's a boxing gym that allows full use of the cardio and weight machines for 1/4th the monthly rate I was being charged at David Lloyd.
We discovered Landmarkt (landmarkt.nl) which is like Marqt in Amsterdam but even more local, and in many ways, way better.
Our Albert Heijn is XL and has hand-held scanners for quick check out. It also does plastic recycling as well as paper and glass (this is not a common occurrence around here).
We discovered the downside of having fruit trees in your yard. You end up with more fruits than you could ever eat or give away, and you get a lot of flies and fruitflies.
Spiders love flies and fruitflies. We watch our spiders get bigger every day. I have a terrible fear of spiders that I had to get over immediately.
I am covered in mosquito bites but I don't mind it. They remind me of my childhood summers.
I saw a little bird with the most vibrant blue feathers with a yellow stripe. He looked like he came from the Amazon. I tried to take his picture but it didn't turn out very well.
We came across a Newfoundland Rescue Dog competition while taking a walk in the Twiske.
Boats and barges cruise by our window every day. The passengers wave and we wave back. Sometimes we wave and they wave back.
We discovered we had a rose bush when suddenly about a week ago these incredible fuchsia blooms appeared out of nowhere along our walkway.
And people say we'd never see anything exciting when we moved outside of the center of Amsterdam...
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Two pretty profound events happened in short succession of each other almost two years ago that marked an angular turn in my life: My beloved stepfather, who was hugely influential to me and supportive of me, passed away unexpectedly, and I turned 40.
The occurrence of these two events caused me to take stock: How do I want to live the back half of my life? What kind of person do I want to become?
I realized that a huge part of who I want to become needs to be woven deeply into where I live. Everything was coming to a head. I have always gravitated toward cities; I love the excitement. I love the access. I love stepping outside my front door and feeling like I'm already somewhere that I'd want to be. But getting older, my preference for absolute domestic serenity, is starting to scream at me. I guess this is what a maternal clock ticking must sound like to those who have one of those maternal clocky ticky things.
So I started to write a list. What would my dream house of the future be? It would need to be a free-standing house with no shared walls. It would need to be close to the center of Amsterdam. It would need to be almost silent all of the time. It would need to be on the ground--I wanted more to care for and I wanted green space for my cats. It would need to be very close to water.
Michael and I started taking little weekend trips to neighboring towns to see if we connected with anything. We didn't. Every little town we looked at sent us speeding back to Amsterdam.
But Amstelveen was nice. It was close enough. There were plenty of free standing houses. And it had a nice little vibe I could relate to. Every house in Amstelveen that met my requirements would laugh in the face of my budget. So, I resolved myself to the fact that I couldn't afford what I wanted. Maybe weekends in a small farm house in France would be a nice option to ponder.
So we went to northwest France and looked at small farm houses. Turns out small farm houses in France are WAY farther away from Amsterdam than, say, Purmerend. There was no denying that ironically claustrophobic feeling that left me rather breathless wasn't going to go away if we moved anywhere out of the city.
I woke up one day, as I often do, with a stream of fully formed thoughts presented like the morning newspaper on a doorstep: what would you be willing to give up to get everything else you wanted in this dream house?
I decided size could be compromised. Even the quality of the house. It had never occurred to me to look under my budget. And literally the minute that I did, I looked on funda.nl, the Dutch real estate web site that obsesses me, and there she was--the perfect house--there was Hexenketel the Houseboat looking back at me with soft doe eyes. How could it not have occurred to me this whole time that a houseboat was a great opportunity to build the lifestyle I long for?
Nope. No. No. No. Too good to be true. I may have been mesmerized by the images on that real estate listing for a second, but the savage housing market in Amsterdam had hardened me. There is no way that a house which was 30 square meters bigger than my current home with all those hand made features, an atelier, a sauna, six fruit trees, and a separate office, was on the market for a lot less than what I paid for my city pad without something being catastrophically wrong with it. Still, we decided, just out of curiosity, to take a look.
Michael and I drove out to the house, which lay just on the northwest corner of the A10, the main bypass around Amsterdam. The current owners were out doing some painting touch ups on the atelier.
Oh dear...the house was 10 times better looking in real life than it was in the pictures on the website. And the owners were nice...so very nice. And the street has nothing on either side of it but water. And the street looks exactly like the street of houseboats just one block away from my home in Seattle. And my stepfather would have really loved this place. And this house is pretty much the culmination of everything that I am and want a be, or want to be again: a person who lives on water, who wants a house that brings the outside in, and has a place that will always need to be taken care of. Amsterdam who?
We went back to our house on the Overtoom. I love this house. I love its location. I love looking across the balcony into the neighbor's living rooms. I love the history of it. I was overwhelmed by the idea of moving--the process, all the work. But I couldn't stop thinking about Hexenketel. Here was a house that was offering everything I wanted and more. Now I had to ask myself, "Do you really want what you thought you wanted?" I couldn't stop asking Michael what he thought, what he wanted.
An interlude. People always ask me, "What about Michael? What does he want?" The truth of it is, he a low maintenance guy, and I'm, well, not so low maintenance. Michael has this great ability to tune out minor annoyances, where I do just the opposite--I can do nothing by hyperfocus on them. I can only hope and trust that Michael is happy to go long for the ride as I cave in to my cyclical restlessness. He knows me well enough to know that each move gets us closer to my elusive contentment. Maybe I'll never totally get there, but we do have adventures along the way.
After about our 5th visit to the houseboat I finally said to Michael, "We'd be stupid not to buy this place." He said, stoically, "Well, then we must buy it."
And that we did.